Train Your Dog

Many people will give different types of answers based on their experience with their dogs. However, the scientific facts related to the feeding aspects in case of dogs need to be given emphasis during the feeding activities maintained in case of dogs.

Usually the puppies should not be separated before they are eight weeks old. However, some times the orphaned puppies may exist. Usually about five percent of the body weight may be taken as criteria for the quantity of food to be given to the puppies. However, the amount that is consumed by the dog varies with size of the dogs also.

One can have a thumb rule of feeding the puppy goes until you see visible fullness of the abdomen to a moderate degree. If you are going on feeding the animal without giving emphasis to the animal’s stomach appearance, then the puppy may experience some kinds of digestive upsets and the diarrhea may occur in them.

This may cause many inconveniences to the owner as well as the puppy. Unlike adult dogs, the puppies need to be fed with restricted amounts of food but in more frequencies. However, once the age advances, the amount may be increased to some extent but the frequency of feeding is often decreased in many occasions.

A dog on a raw diet may consume only two to four percent of their body weight. Just observe closely the feeding pattern of the dog and the body condition of the animal. If the dog becomes obese, just reduce the quantity of food and if the dog becomes thin, then have an increase in the feeding items.

As mentioned earlier, puppies and adolescent dogs eat more than the adult dogs. Likewise the geriatric dog eats less than the adult dog due to the reduced movements of the dog. However, remember to restrict the amounts of protein during the feeding of diet to the aged dogs.

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The common questions about heart worm are often related to the species affected by heart worms in addition to the dogs. One should know that in addition to dogs, the cat, fox, wolf, horse, sea lion etc. are also affected. Can this be cured or not? Yes. This can be treated.

What is the drug used often for the prevention of heart worm in dogs? Ivermectin is the drug used often to have preventive actions for these heart worms. Dogs affected reveal constant coughing, panting and dullness in many occasions.

What will be the size of the worms? In the case of the females, it is about twenty-seven centimeters and in the case of males, it is about seventeen centimeters in length. Is there any vector involve in the transmission of the disease? Yes. Mosquitoes often get associated as vectors in which the early development of larvae of heart worms occur in them.

Is the prophylaxis meant only for heart worms or others also? The prophylaxis is meant not only for the heart worms but also for the hook worms, whip worms, and round worms. What is the infective type of larvae that is associated with the transmission of these heart worms? The third stage larva that is transmitted by the mosquito bites.

This occurs through out the world. In some areas, the incidences are less in colder months in which the mosquito breeding will not be there and may be dormant during these periods. What is the name of
the drug used for therapy and prevention? Ivermectin and milbemycin oxime may be used for both purposes. Ivermectin is available in injection form and oral form.

Additionally, the forms for external application are also available. The cost factor needs to be worked out for all these treatments. What is the frequency of drug used for prophylaxis? One month before the mosquito season and up to two months after the mosquito season, ivermectin or milbemycin oxime may be given once monthly for the prophylaxis. Diethylcarbamazine may be used for therapy purpose.

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These types of food materials are different with different grades of liking by the dogs. Dogs like dry foods only if they are tasty only and however, on comparison, the dogs prefer only the canned food items. Reason for such preference by the dogs is that in case of canned food items, the moisture is about seventy to eighty per cent but in case of dry food, it is only about ten per cent.

However, if you view it in terms of nutrients, often the dry food contains nearly ninety per cent nutrients whereas the canned food items contain only less per cent of nutrients and most of the times. It is only soy products that are structured so well to look like meat pieces.

Hence, to make up the nutritional balance in the body systems, the dog has to eat more amounts of canned food materials than the dry food materials. Hence, just compare the cost factor related to this feature by you. Many dry food items are soybean and rice based.

Now some dry food items are based on corn. Sometimes, beef based or chicken based food items come in the cans along with mineral and vitamin supplements suited for the upkeep of the dog’s health status. Larger dogs that weigh more than thirty pounds need to be fed with semi moist food items or dry food items in most of the occasions.

This is to satisfy the food receptors in the stomach. This is due to the fact that the larger dogs need to eat plenty of moist food or the canned food items to satisfy these criteria. But it may not be practically possible in these larger dogs. The small sized dogs may have a satisfactory level of nutrients if fed even the moist food items.

However, the caloric density of the dry food should not be forgotten. Enriched dry food items are highly welcome ones than the non -enriched food items.

Tags: Canned Dog food, Dog Food, Dry Dog food
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Spaying of the female dog is undertaken to control the unwanted pregnancy by crossing of some unknown or country or non-descript dogs. The spaying of the dog reduces the aggressiveness of the dog. By spaying, one can reduce the incidences of the commonly encountered reproductive diseases like pyometra.

Spaying also helps to control the population in case of stray animals and many nations are doing these operations by removing the ovaries from the female animals. Experienced veterinarians are required to do the spaying in case of female dogs and the postoperative care is to be given more emphasis. If proper control measures are not taken after the surgical operation for the removal of ovary, then the infections may start setting in and the animal may end up in development of peritonitis and then toxemia sets in, causing unwanted health problems.

Death of the dog may finally occur, if the dog is not provided an effective and proper veterinary care. A female dog that is spayed before the occurrence of first heat will have almost a zero chance of development of mammary cancer, which is more common with the dogs that are not spayed.

A female dog generally comes to heat once in eight months or so. During the heat occurrence, there is bleeding from vagina and the dog may cross with the unwanted male and the spaying activity prevents all these. In case of aged dogs, the dog may often get signs of increased thirst, anorexia, vomiting etc. that are so common with pyometra.

Pyometra means the presence of pus in the uterus. Once pyometra occurs, it involves many discomforts to the animal in addition to the cost factor involved for the therapy also. Such pyometra is totally prevented by spaying because in the case of spaying, you are removing both ovaries and the uterus.

Tags: Female dog, Spaying
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Dog ownership comes with considerable responsibility, and the decision to introduce a dog—whether puppy or adult—into your home should not be taken lightly. Having a dog inevitably changes your lifestyle. The decision to bring a dog home can (and hopefully will) represent a 10 or 15 year commitment or more. Advancements in veterinary care and nutrition have resulted in longer life spans for most breeds of dogs.

Dogs require a time commitment from their owners. They are pack animals and do not like to be left alone for extended periods of time. You and your family members become your dog’s pack. The workaholic who leaves for the office at 6AM and comes back at 10PM is not the ideal dog owner. Frequent travelers have to make arrangements for boarding their dog when they are gone, which can be expensive. Even if suitable arrangements can be made, no dog wants to spend half its life in a boarding kennel—he wants to be with his pack.

Time must be spent training and socializing your dog so he can be a member of the community. Your dog must be under control when he meets people or dogs on a walk, or when guests come to your home. Successful training requires patience, consistency—and time. A poorly trained dog can be disruptive to a household. And a dog that is poorly socialized can be a hazard for children and other dogs he might encounter. In many cases, it is beneficial for the dog and owner to attend organized obedience training classes.

Dogs vary in the amount of maintenance they require, but most dogs need to have their coats brushed or groomed (in some cases like the Old English Sheepdog this may require several hours of grooming per week). They need their teeth brushed regularly. Most breeds need some kind of daily exercise, some need long walks or runs daily or twice daily to keep them contented. They need the stimulation of play as well, whether it is a simple game of fetch a ball or more formal activities such as entering agility training programs. Some breeds must have their ears cleaned regularly. And don’t forget baths!

The bottom line question is: Does your lifestyle allow you enough time to properly care for your dog, well beyond just feeding him or talking him for a quick walk around the block when you get home from work?

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Sanitation in a dog run can be a major factor in your pet’s good health, and lack of sanitation could be a major factor contributing to his death.

Dog runs are generally constructed from some combination of wire or chain link fencing, concrete, sand, soil, grass, and/or gravel. Runs can be elevated off the ground with a mesh floor that allows excrement to fall through. These are easy to keep clean, and pets kept in these types of runs typically have the fewest parasites. Dogs kept in runs with concrete floors generally suffer the most parasites because concrete is an excellent incubator.

Grass doesn’t provide a terribly sanitary dog run floor either. Completely removing stools from grassy areas is practically impossible. Worm eggs stick to grass blades, and dogs who chew on the grass become infested or re-infested. Even the thickest grass will die out when contained in a dog run, and the soil will turn to mud.

An excellent dog run floor material is washed builder’s sand. It is inexpensive, easy to remove, easy to dispose of, and easy to replace. It easily shakes off a dog’s feet, even when wet, and doesn’t track into his kennel, which typically can’t be said of soil, especially soil with a clay component.

Proper sanitation of dog runs requires not only removing stools, but by replacing the base material periodically as well. If you’re using sand, this is a simple process. The problem with removing only the stools is that worm eggs can wash down into the surface material of the run. The only way to remove those eggs is to occasionally remove and replace the material.

When cleaning the dog run, don’t rake stools into a pile, then shovel the pile out. Raking or sweeping the stools will break it up and distribute worm eggs throughout the run. Embryonated worm eggs can withstand the elements for years. When hookworm eggs hatch the larvae can move upward from fairly deep in the soil and reach the surface, giving them immediate access to your pet.

There is no such thing as too much care when it comes to removing stools from the dog run. Removing them efficiently from gravel or grass is impossible. Removing them from concrete without leaving eggs in the dimpled surface is impossible. Only burning or scrubbing can effectively remove eggs from a concrete surface. The spray from a hose will not accomplish the task.

Cleaning a dog run of any time is difficult in winter. Fortunately worm eggs will not incubate in cold weather, and fleas won’t develop either. Remove what surface material you are able during the winter, and in the spring remove and replace the top two inches.

When confined to a run, most dogs will do their business within an area of a few square yards. If this is the case with your pet, it is relatively easy to dig the soil out of that area and replace it with sand. Keep in mind that turning the sand is not sufficient to provide a sanitary place for your pet. Dogs dig holes and when doing so will bring old buried worm eggs to the surface.

Keeping your dog run clean and sanitary is one of the best preventative health measures you can take for your pet. A healthy pet will provide a happy companion for many years.

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Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine’s skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.

When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog’s sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog’s body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.

Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine’s skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.

If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician’s pliers.

No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.

If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog’s tongue so it won’t slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.

Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn’t poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.

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The dog first aid principles that the dog owner should master are relatively few and simple in practice, but are essential skills in the case of an emergency and could save the life of your pet. Recovery time after an injury, complete healing as opposed to permanent disability or scarring, or even survival of the injured dog at all, can often depend on the treatment received immediately after being hurt.

Shock – Any serious injury—burns, fractures, deep lacerations, even dog fights—can induce shock in a dog. The most common symptom of shock in a dog is a semi-oblivious yet anxious state. The nervous system becomes depressed, sometimes severe enough to cause complete immobility. Sometimes, though in relatively few cases, the dog may display a quite opposite affect of nervous excitement. In all cases, a dog in shock will have a slow weak pulse, and shallow respiration. Dogs recovering from shock will often develop a rapid pulse and high body temperature.

The treatment for shock in dogs is to cover the animal to bring the temperature up to normal. Give the dog a stimulant, such as coffee, to raise the heart rate, and keep the animal calm so that it rests. Gentle petting will generally instill a relaxed state. Recovery generally occurs in one or two hours.

Heat Stroke – Dogs are the most susceptible of all pets to heat stroke. Bulldogs and obese dogs are the most common victims. Dogs with thick coats should be clipped in the summer to protect them against the heat.

Panting is a normal method for dogs to reduce body temperature, however sharp and continuous panting can indicate heat stroke. The tongue can turn purple and the dog will seem unable to catch its breath.

When your dog is displaying symptoms of heat stroke, you must lower the body temperature of the animal. The way the body cools itself is by evaporating water. Lay the dog on a flat surface and pour water over him until his coat is completely soaked. Place an electric fan near the dog, and direct the air straight at him. As the water evaporates, add more. Take the dog’s temperature occasionally until it lowers to 101 degrees Fahrenheit, which is normal. This method should result in a 5-7 degree drop in temperature in about 30 minutes. When the dog’s temperature returns to normal, dry him off and keep him out of the heat.

If an electric fan is not available, immerse the dog in a tub of cold water.

Hit by a Car – When a dog is struck by a vehicle, you should restrain him and begin treating for shock. Check the gums to see if he is losing blood too quickly. If the gums have a gray or white appearance, the dog likely has injured an organ and is bleeding internally. If this is the case, then stretch the dog out and have someone assist you by holding the front and hind legs. Wrap long strips of bandage torn from a bed sheet or similar material around his torso tightly in a girdle or corset-like fashion. Continue to wrap until you have created a good firm support. Be sure the bandaging lies flat against the dog’s body and doesn’t bunch up when he moves. The bandages must create a long cylinder which holds the internal organs still. Keeping the organs immobile will assist in allowing a blood clot to form and slow or stop the internal bleeding. Do everything you are able to keep the animal still until a veterinarian arrives. Do not move the dog from the accident scene if there are signs of internal bleeding. A dog can bleed to death very quickly.

Knowing how to administer dog first aid before you find yourself in a situation where you need it can save the life of your pet. Preventing situations that may cause your dog to be injured is even better.

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There’s more to housebreaking a dog then many pet owners are prepared for. It requires commitment, discipline, patience and consistency. By following the steps set forth below, you can minimize piddles on the carpet, but every puppy or newly house trained adult dog will have an accident, and likely several. The more consistent you are in these housebreaking procedures, the quicker the puppy will learn the desired behavior. Effectively housebreaking a puppy will usually take several weeks, and small breeds sometimes take longer.

Dogs will do better if you put them on a routine. Take your pet outside at least every two hours, immediately after waking from a nap, playing, eating or drinking.

Praise your puppy every time he does his business outside. Make a big deal of it. Praise him verbally, pet him, and even give him a treat. But make sure you do it immediately after he finishes going. Don’t wait until you get him back inside the house or he won’t understand what you are praising him for. Rewarding him is the only way he will understand what he’s supposed to do, so this type of positive reinforcement is essential.

Pick a spot for your dog to go that is near the door you take him out through. Go to the same spot every time, and only reward him with a longer walk or a play session after he has gone to the bathroom. If you have to clean up an accident in the house, take whatever you cleaned the mess up with and leave it on his bathroom spot. The smell will help him identify and understand that this spot is where he is supposed to go. While the puppy is in the act of eliminating, use a phrase such as “go potty.” Use the same phrase every time. This phrase when used later will help you and your pet communicate the need to go to the bathroom. Generally, after the dog is trained, you will be able to say your phrase, and if he needs to go he will act excited and head for the door. If he doesn’t need to go he might look at you like you’re nuts.

Feed your dog at the same time each day. This will increase the likelihood that he’ll need to go to the bathroom on a consistent schedule as well. It will make the housebreaking process quicker and easier for both you and your pet.

Keep an eye on your puppy whenever he’s indoors and don’t give him the opportunity to have an accident on the floor. Watch for signals that he needs to go (sniffing or circling), and immediately take him out to his spot. Don’t forget to praise him immediately when he goes.

When you’re unable to watch your puppy he should be confined to a very small area that he won’t want to pee in. An area that is only big enough for him to stand, lie down, and turn around in will discourage him from going to the bathroom there. If the puppy has been confined for several hours you will need to take him immediately to his bathroom spot when letting him out. Don’t forget to praise him when he goes.

Expect your puppy to have accidents when housebreaking. It’s going to happen.

When you catch your pet in the act of going to the bathroom in the house, do something to interrupt him. Making a startling noise will work, but make sure not to scare him. After interrupting him, take him immediately out to his spot and praise him when he finishes outside.

Never punish your puppy for having an accident in the house. If you find a spot where he went, it’s too late to do anything about it other than just to clean it up. Don’t rub his nose in it, scold him, or try to punish him in some other way. Punishment will almost always be more harmful than helpful.

Make sure you clean and deodorize the scene of an accident thoroughly. An area that smells like urine or feces will encourage him to do it on that spot again.

Consistency in these methods is the key to successfully housebreaking a puppy. It is your responsibility to effectively train the dog, not the dog’s responsibility to figure out how you want him to behave. The more quickly and efficiently you accomplish the goal, the happier you both will be.

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A broken leg is the most common fracture in animals and commands immediate attention. The dog’s leg must be straightened and immobilized. Anxiety over doing this must be put aside. Just do it—for the sake of the pet. A splint is required, and one can be fashioned from a trellis slat, a yardstick, or a tine from a rake. The leg must be tied both above and below the break to the splint and secured with anything that will hold it in place securely until the dog can be transported to the vet.

A splint should be applied immediately upon suspicion of a broken bone. If the bone is allowed to move it could sever an artery and complicate the treatment of the injury further. Splinting a greenstick fracture is just as important as splinting a clean break, as leg movement with a greenstick fracture could break it further.

In the case of broken ribs, it is important to keep the dog quiet. Broken ribs can easily puncture a lung. Lay the dog down on the side opposite the broken ribs and keep him as calm and still as possible until the vet arrives. Do not try to transport a dog with broken ribs yourself.

A fractured hip is slow to heal. Little can be done to treat broken pelvis bones or to speed up the healing process. If only one side is broken, the dog may still be able to walk on three legs. Most hips break in a fashion that prevents the dog from walking at all until numbness develops and acts as a natural anesthetic. The dog may be unable to raise himself for several days after a break, and will require assistance in getting up.

The ability to walk will improve gradually, but don’t expect to see a dog with a broken hip running for a month or longer after the injury occurs. Even after the healing is well under way, the pet may still require assistance in getting up, and you may have to carry him outside and hold him steady while defecating.

Broken backs in dogs are not always without hope of healing. Skilled veterinarians are often able to set and wire backs in a fashion that permits near normal function. If you suspect your dog has a broken back, keep him as immobile as possible and transport him quickly to the vet. The spinal cord is fragile and damage to the nerve-fiber must be minimized if the animal is to survive.

A common back break in dogs occurs at the point where the tail vertebrae start. The tail hangs limp in such cases and the animal is unable to raise it to defecate. These injuries sometimes result in the tail becoming gangrenous which makes removal of the tail necessary to prevent the spread of infection.

Tags: Broken Leg, Dog with a Broken Leg
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