Posts Tagged ‘Dogs’

The most basic way to define human grade puppy foods is always that it’s foods fit for human consumption. Long gone are the days when it was assumed that a puppy is perfectly fine eating whatever scraps or animal by-products we ourselves do not wish to consume. While it’s totally true that wild animals hunt and eat most of what they kill: They do not consume chemicals, dyes, soy, cornstarch as well as other contaminants or fillers that most commercial puppy foods have in them.

Feeding your dog a human grade puppy foods (I.e. natural, holistic, organic, etc.) means you care about their health and want them to be around for a long time. Commercial dog food merely became well-liked in the mid-1900′s as a method to obtain rid of waste from animal processing plants, then later numerous companies discovered they could turn a hefty profit by mixing in vegetable fillers, then dyeing it with eye pleasing colors to make us feel like we were giving our pets a delicious treat.

Many of the well-liked puppy foods manufacturers make use of very much from the same low-quality meat by-products and other fillers, although others could possibly add different vitamins, minerals and other elements to market their products.

Purchasing all organic, holistic (human grade dog foods) for your pet is much easier on their program and provides for a healthier coat, bowel movements and correct PH balance for their internal organs. A bird like a vulture may be fairly happy with leftovers, but your dog is really a descendant of the wolf: An animal that hunts and eats primarily fresh meat, while occasionally snacking on wild fruits and vegetables.

What this should mean to all who are reading is always that a dog’s program is no far better equipped to consume processed foods than a human is. Feed them a high-quality human grade dog food to give them the best chance at a long, happy and healthy life.

Eating slightly less costly, pet health care preservative-filled foods just leads to much more veterinary visits as your dog ages (as poor food sends us to the doctor much more frequently as we age). The savings from vet visits, medications and other expenses will far outweigh the little extra you could possibly pay for holistic dog food, over the commercial pet health food alternative.

Great dane puppy training is surely an interesting yet challenging part of owning a dog. It is in the course of this period where you’re teaching your young pet not merely tricks to delight others but most importantly, you’re molding him to grow as a respectful, loving, kind and dependable member of the family. While obedience classes or working with a professional dog trainer is considered to be the best and quickest means for successful training, training at home can be just as effective. In addition, training at home will give more chance for you to learn more about your dog, what sort of approach he best responds to and what are the things that distress him the most. It’s also through this that bond, trust and respect for each other are built.

When training your pup at home, it is best to equip yourself with the awareness of the most effective and useful training approach. Below are a few suggestions you may want to think about:

Ready your tools.
Increase the chances of getting positive training result by using the right dog training tools. These include but not limited to treats, training collar, leash, crate, clicker and more. Uncover what is ideally suited for your pet and stick to that particular tool. You can use more than a single tool though.

Choose the best spot.
Getting your pup’s undivided attention is one of the things that can lead to successful great dane puppy training. However, puppies are naturally curious creatures and are easily distracted with various sights and sounds. To maintain uninterrupted training, find a location where there is less distractions. You can change location provided that your dog has learned that particular command you’re teaching him.

Make training periods brief|quick.
Puppies are not only easily distracted, they do have short attention span as well. Lengthy and less challenging training sessions could easily bore them so better make it brief and extra fun. Ten to 15 minutes of training for around three to four times a day would be sufficient.

End on a positive note.
Always make every training session a positive encounter for your dog in order to keep his attention and make him want to look forward for the next sessions to come.

In dog training terms I love to call this “Stranger Aggression”.  If your dog gets scared by strangers; jumpy and always on alert, pacing and scared by the smallest movements or if he is very still with laser like concentrate on his target (the mailman, a visitor approaching).  Then your dog is showing danger signals that he could get assertive toward strangers. 

Reasons why

The one reason dogs show “stranger aggression” is they have not been correctly socialized around strangers.  They have not spent enough time around strangers to get used to them.  Your dog looks to you for all his worldly experiences.  It is up to you to show him to new people, places and things in a positive manner with positive experiences so that he will realize for himself that not all new places and faces are something to be scared of. 

What do you do now? 

Socialization: A method of getting your dog accustom to the world around him and all the peculiar folk, animals and things in it.  I cannot stress enough the importance of socialization is to your dogs upbringing.  Socialization should start as fast as your puppy has his vaccinations and continue throw out his life. 

What about an older dog. 

It is never too late to socialize your dog.  Though it may take a bit longer and you should take certain precautions so that you, your dog or the stranger can avoid a bad experience or worse an injury. 

Take it slow and never force a highly concerned dog into a strange situation.  Try to keep any training in short lessons or exposures of not more than 15 minutes.  Show your dog to new folk and places constantly.  You should expect your dog to get over his fears if you only work on his socialization once a week.  Try 2 to 3 times per week and go from there with longer sessions.

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